PAOLO 

ROVERSI

BIOGRAPHY

Born in Ravenna in 1947, Paolo Roversi’s interest in photography was kindled as a teenager during a family vacation in Spain in 1964. Back home, he set up a darkroom in a convenient cellar with another keen amateur, the local postman Battista Minguzzi, and began developing and printing his own black & white work. The encounter with a local professional photographer Nevio Natali was very important: in Nevio’s studio Paolo spent many many hours realising an important apprenticeship as well as a strong durable friendship. In 1970 he started collaborating with the Associated Press: on his first assignment, AP sent Paolo to cover Ezra Pound’s funeral in Venice. During the same year Paolo opened, with his friend Giancarlo Gramantieri his first portrait studio, located in Ravenna, via Cavour, 58, photographing local celebrities and their families. In 1971 he met by chance in Ravenna, Peter Knapp, the legendary Art Director of Elle magazine. At Knapp’s invitation, Paolo visited Paris in November 1973 and has never left. In Paris Paolo started working as a reporter for the Huppert Agency but little by little, through his friends, he began to approach fashion photography. The photographers who really interested him then were reporters. At that moment he didn’t know much about fashion or fashion photography. Only later he discovered the work of Avedon, Penn, Newton, Bourdin and many others. The British photographer Lawrence Sackmann took Paolo on as his assistant in 1974. « Sackmann was very difficult. Most assistants only lasted a week before running away. But he taught me everything I needed to know in order to become a professional photographer. Sackmann taught me creativity. He was always trying new things even if he did always use the same camera and flash set-up. He was almost military-like in his approach to preparation for a shoot. But he always used to say ‘your tripod and your camera must be well-fixed but your eyes and mind should be free’”. Paolo endured Sackmann for nine months before starting on his own with small jobs here and there for magazines like Elle and Depeche Mode until Marie Claire published his first major fashion story. A Christian Dior beauty campaign brought him wider recognition in 1980, the year he started using the 8 x 10” Polaroid format that would become his trademark. Not only because of the large camera, Paolo has always preferred working in studio. In his first years in Paris, the studio was very often a room from his own different apartments, all on the left bank, until he found in 1981 the studio located in 9 rue Paul Fort where he is still working. In the middle of the ‘80s the fashion industry was very keen to produce catalogues which allowed photographers to express a very creative and personal work: Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Romeo Gigli… gave Paolo that opportunity. During his travels to India, Yemen… Paolo took many portraits; we can see some of them in his books ANGELI and Al Moukalla; a book about India is in preparation. Paolo has also realised some commercials. Since the middle 80’ his work has been subject to many exhibitions and books and many awards have honoured his work. Today Paolo has a regular collaboration with the most interesting fashion magazines and fashion designers.

Awards

China Fashion Awards

2001

Trophée de la Mode

1996

Quatrième Festival International de la Photo de Mode

1993

Prix Jasmin

1991

Exhibition
Solo

2018 - Paolo Roversi, Photographs, Shoot Gallery (Oslo) 

2017 - Storie, Palazzo Reale (Milan)

- Incontri, Gallery Carla Sozzani (Milan)

- D’après une histoire vraie, film de Roman Polanski 

2015 - Hamiltons Gallery (London)

2014 - Secrets, Gallery Camera Obscura (Paris)

2013 - Secrets Fotografiska (Stockholm)

2012 - Baci, Silenzio (Paris)

- Tashkent House of Photography (Uzbekistan)

- Paolo Roversi, The Wapping Project (London)

2011 - Nudi, Camera Work (Berlin)

- Photographs, 10 Corso Como (Seoul)

- Studio (Reggio Emilia)

- Shangxia Family (Shanghai)

2010 - Studio, Photo biennale Viva la France, Moscow House of Photography (Moscow)

- Studio, Kusthalle (Rostock) 

2009 - Paolo Roversi, Camera Work (Berlin)

- Paolo Roversi, Atelier Jungwirth (Graz)

2008 - Guinevere, Pace/MacGill Gallery (New York)

- Studio, Eglise Sainte Anne, Les Rencontres d’Arles

2007 - Paolo Roversi, National Art Museum of China, Beijing, The Shanghai Art Museum (Shanghai) and The Guangdong Art Museum (Guangzhou)

2006 - Studio, Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse number 1 (Yokohama)

2005 - Studio, Transphotographique, (Lille)

2002 - Studio, Pace MacGill Gallery, (New York)

- Studio, Gallery Camera Obscura, (Paris)

2001 - Images Cerruti, James Gallery, (Moscow)

2000 - Paolo Roversi, Photographs, Gallery Carla Sozzani (Milan)

1998 - Portraits, Gallery 213 (Paris)

1997 - Paolo Roversi, Comme des Garçons (Tokyo)

- Paolo Roversi - Fashion, Scalo Bookshop (Zurich) (with Robert Frank)

1995 - Paris Défile, Villa des Noailles (Hyères)

1994    - Galerie Municipale du Château d’Eau (Toulouse)

- Paris Défile Gallery Brownstone (Paris)

- Paolo Roversi Polaroids, Hamilton Gallery (London)

- Angeli, Photo Gallery International (Tokyo)

1993 - Angeli, Gallery Camera Obcura (Paris)

1992 - Paolo Roversi (Monaco)

1990 - Donne Nude (Tokyo)

1989 - Una Donna, Solomon Gallery (New York)

- Una Donna, Spazio Romeo Gigli (Milan)

 

 

 

2018 - Between Art and Fashion, Helmut Newton Foundation (Berlin)

- Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier, Design Museum London

2017 - Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garçons, The MET

2016 - Vogue 100, National Portrait Gallery

- Entre l’Art et la Mode, Azzedine Alaïa

2015 - Jean-Paul Gaultier, Grand Palais Paris 

- Eyes wide open, 100 years of Leica Photography

- La Marchesa Casati Palazzo Fortuny, Venice

- Like a Painting, Thyssen Museum Madrid2014

- The Glamour of Italian Fashion Since 1945, V&A (London)

- Papier Glacé, Un siècle de photographie de mode chez Conde Nast, Thames and Hudson 

- Dior, images de legend, Dior Museum Granville

- Supermodel, Camera Work (Berlin)

2013   - Exposition Azzedine Alaïa, Musée Galliera (Paris)

- Music, Camera Work (Berlin)

2011 - Charlotte Rampling, MEP (Paris)

- Lady Dior, Moscow

- Annie Lennox, V&A (London)

- Yohji making waves, The Wapping Project (London)

- Lady Dior As seen by (Shanghai) 

- Jean Paul Gaultier, Musée des Beaux Arts Montréal

- 64/87 Photography in the fast lane, Gallery der Stadt Sindelfingen

2010 - Fashion, 9 decades of photography, Fotografiska (Stockholm)

2009 - Weird Beauty, ICP (New York)

  La Moda Scritta con la Luce, Palazzo Borromeo (Milano)

- Les couvertures de Vogue, Les Champs Elysées (Paris)

2008 - Paris en couleur, de 1907 à nos jours, Hôtel de Ville (Paris)

- Fashion, 9 decades of photography, Camera Work (Berlin)

- Traumfrauen, Starfotografen zeigen ihre Vision von Schönheit, Deichtorhallen (Hambourg)

2007 - Autoportraits de Mode, Bon Marché (Paris) 

- Face of Fashion, National Portrait Gallery (London)

2006 - Clichy sans Clichés, Clichy-sous-Bois and Hôtel de Ville de Paris

2005 - Yohji Yamamoto correspondences, Pitti Immagine, (Florence)

- Photography & Fashion, Athens Concert Hall (Athens)

2004 - Do, PaceMacGill Gallery New York, (New York)

- Fashion Passion, Oca Pavilion, (Brazil)

- Belles en Vogue, Le Bon Marché, (Paris)

  1. - Bravehearts / Men in Skirts, Metropolitan Museum (New York)

- Noonwright, Form/Design Center, (Sweden)

- Flower Power, Acte 2, (Paris)

- May I help you?, Yohji Yamamoto, Hara Museum, (Tokyo)

- Fables de l’Identité, Collection NSM Vie, Centre national de la photographie, (Paris)

2002 - May I help you?, Yohji Yamamoto, Maison Européenne de la Photographie, (Paris)

- Autoportrait, Studios Pin-Up, (Paris)

- Unified Message, Camera Work, (Berlin)

- Archaeology of Elegance, Galerie 213, (Hamburg)

- Unseen Vogue, Hamilton Gallery  (London)

2001 - i-D Learn and Pass it on, Colette (Paris)

- International Festival of Fashion Photography, (Japan)

  1. - W Magazine (Milan, New York)

- Armani, Guggenheim Museum (New York)

- Sarajane Hoare Retrospective (New York)

- Photo District News 20th Anniversary, Centre of Photography (New York)

1999 - Isabella Rossellini, Schirmer/Mosel Showroom (Munich)

- i-d Beyond Price (Paris)

- Under/Exposed (Stockholm)

1998 - Yves Saint Laurent, Colette (Paris)

- Yves Saint Laurent, International Festival of Fashion Photograph (New York, Tokyo...)

- Addressing the Century -100 Years of Art and Fashion, Hayward Gallery (London)

- i-d Family, Colette (Paris)

1997 - Tati 50 years (Paris)

- Images Sensibles, Secours Populaire (Paris)

1995 - Kate Moss, James Danziger Gallery (New York)

1993     - Vanities, National Centre of Photography (Paris)

- Short Stories, James Danziger Gallery (New York)

1992 - Nu, Gallery Private View (Paris)

1991 - Appearances-Fashion Photography since 1945, Victoria & Albert Museum  (London)

1990 - The Historical Mode, Fashion Institute of Technology (New York)

1989 - Fashion Photographs, Solomon Gallery (New York)

1986 - Comme de Garçons, Centre Pompidou (Paris)

1985 - Shots of Style, Victoria & Albert Museum (London)

1984 - 20 anni di Vogue, Sagrato de Duomo (Milan)

 

 

 

Monographs:

2017 - Storie, Skira 

- Dior Images : Paolo Roversi, Rizzoli 

2014 - Secrets, Stromboli (Paris) (Second edition) 

2013 - Secrets, Stromboli (Paris)

2012 - Paolo Roversi, Photo Poche Delpire/Actes Sud (France)

2009 - Studio, SteidlDangin (Germany) (French edition)

2006 - Studio, SteidlDangin (Germany)

2000 - Libretto, Stromboli (Paris)

1999 - Nudi, Stromboli (Paris)

- Images Cerruti, Steidl (Germany)

1995 - Al Moukalla, Camera Obscura (Paris)

1994 - Paolo Roversi, Galerie Municipale du Château d’Eau (Toulouse)

1993 - Angeli, Camera Obscura (Paris)

1989 - Una Donna, Edizione Carla Sozzani (Milan)

- Donne Nude, Portfolio

 

2018 - Viktor & Rolf, Fashion Artists 25 Years, Kunsthall Rotterdam 

2017 - Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garçons, The MET

2016 - Vogue 100, A Century of Style, National Portrait Gallery

- Naomi Campbell, Taschen

- Martine Sitbon, Rizzoli

- Entre l’Art et la Mode, Azzedine Alaïa

- Hair by Sam McKnight, Rizzoli

- Suzanne Koller, Red lips, attitudes and other obsessions, Idea books

2015 - Jean-Paul Gaultier, Musée des Beaux-Arts Montreal

- 40 years of Armani, Rizzoli

- Dior, Rizzoli

- Art for love, Rizzoli

- Eyes wide open, 100 years of Leica Photography

2014 - The Glamour of Italian Fashion Since 1945, Victoria & Albert Musuem

2013 - Papier Glacé, Un siècle de photographie de mode chez Conde Nast, Thames and Hudson

- Lori Goldstein, Style is instinct, Harper Collins

- Dolce & Gabbana, Collezione Venezia 5 Luglio 2013

2012 - Galleria Carla Sozzani 1990 – 2012

- W, The first 40 years, Abrams

- Corporate collections, Kulturkreis der deutschen Wirtschaft

- Kate Moss, Rizzoli International Publications

- Rei Kawabuko, Taschen

- Vivienne Westwood, Taschen

- Yohji Yamamoto, Taschen

2011 - Yohji Yamamoto, V&A (Angleterre)

- Lady Dior, As seen by, Dior (France)

- Photographes A-Z, Taschen

- Jean Paul Gaultier, Musée des Beaux Arts Montréal

- 64/87 Photography in the fast lane, WerkStadt

- Parisian Chic, Flammarion (France)

2010 - Vogue Model, The Faces of Fashion, Little Brown (Italie)

- Vogue - The Best of Five, Special Anniversary Edition, Conde Nast (Chine)

- Stephen Jones & the accent of fashion, Lannoo (Belgum)

- Some/things 5france)

- Montana, l’Editeur (France)

- Monica Bellucci, Rizzoli(Chine)

- Les Unes, Libération, Editions de la Martinière (France)

- Kenzo, Rizzoli (Chine)

- i-D Covers 1980-2010, Taschen (Chine)

- Minimalism and Fashion, Collins (UK)

- Photobiennale 2010, Mdf (Moscou)

2009 - A Un Cerbiatto Somiglia Il Mio Amore, Mondadori (Italie)

- 100 contemporary fashion designers, Taschen (Chine)

2008 - Traumfrauen, Starfotografen zeigen ihre Vision von Schönheit, Deichtorhallen (Hambourg)

- Soul I-D, Taschen

- Les Rencontres d’Arles Photographie 2008 (France)

- Bloc-notes sur Paris, Bungeishunju (Japan)

- Babeth, Editions 7L (France)

- A book about hair, Printkultur GbR 

- Betc Paris, Bis Publisher (Italie)

2007 - Face of Fashion, National Portrait Gallery (London)

- Paris en couleur, de 1907 à nos jours, Seuil (France)

2006 - Dolce & Gabbana, Fashion Album, Skira (Italy)

- Coats, Max Mara, Skira

- An Exhibition Triptych, Musée de la Mode, Pitti, MoMu

- Balenciaga Paris, Thames & Hudson

- Clichy sans Clichés, Delpire (France)

- Beauty in Vogue, Condé Nast (Espagne)

2005 - 20 Years Dolce & Gabbana (Milan)

- Photography & Fashion”, Athens Concecrt Hall (Athens)

- Unlimited: Comme des Garçons, Sanae Shimizu & NHK (Japon)

- Italian Eye, Edizioni Charta (Italie)

- Hors Circuit, Transphotographique (Lille)

- Modefotographi, Museum Tusculanums Forlag (Denmark)

- Isabelle Huppert, Seuil (France)

- Beyond Desir, Ludion (Belgique)

- 20 years Dolce & Gabbana, 5 Continents Editions (Italie)

- Showtime le défilé de mode, Paris Musée (Paris)

2004 - Marie Claire, 50 ans de la vie des femmes, Marie Claire (Paris)

- Face to Face, Flammarion (Paris)

- Evening Dress, Rizzoli (New York)

  1. 2003.    - Bravehearts / Men in Skirts, Abrams (New York)

- Belles en Vogue, Ramsay (Paris)

- Chanel Parfum, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Her Style, L7 (Paris)

- Portraiturés, Editiond du Régard (Paris)

- Fashion at the Edge, Yale University (London)

- Facce da Bambini, Vogue Bambini, Conde Nast (Mlian)

- l’ABCdiare de la photographie, Flammarion (Paris)

- Fashion Now, Taschen (London)

2002    - Das Lexikon der Fotografen, Knaur (Germany)

- Looking at me, Isabella Rossellini on pictures and photographers, Schirmer/Mosel (Münich)

- Radical Fashion, Victoria & Albert Museum  (London)

- Kartell – 150 items, 150 artworks, Skira (Milan)

- Archaeology of Elegance 1980-2000, Schirmer/Mosel (Münich)

- Grace – Thirty Years of Fashion in Vogue, Editions 7L (New York)

- Unseen Vogue, Little Brown (London)

- Talking to myself, Yohji Yamamoto/Edizione Carla Sozzani (Milan)

- Mois de la Photo à Paris, Paris Audiovisuel (Paris)

- Bijoux de tête, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Unified Message, Camera Work/Steidl Verlag, (Berlin)

2001 - Vera Wrang, Nicolas Callaway

- Dizionario di Fotografia, Rizzoli, Italie

- Color Photography, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Parures Ethniques, Edition Assouline, (Paris)

- Histoire de la photographie en images, Marval (Paris)

- L' Agenda Les Petits Frères, Robert Delpire (Paris)

- La frivolité essentielle, Presses Universitaires de France (Paris)

- Smile, i-D (London)

- Rewind/Forward, Yohji Yamamoto (Paris)

- Zoo (London)

2000.    - Manolo Blahnik, Casselle & Co (London)

- Fashion faces up, Steidl (Germany)

- Millennium of Mode, Hiro Ikeda (Japan)

- Valentino’s Red Book, Condé Nast (Italy)

- Nadja Auerman, Schirmer/Mosel (Munich)

- Le Nu, Editions du Chêne (Paris)

- L’Allure des Hommes, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Giorgio Armani, Guggenheim Museum (New York)

- Fashion Today, Phaidon (London)

- Fashion, Editions de la Martinère (Paris)

- Beauté du siècle, Editions Assouline (Paris)

1999 - Créateurs du Mode, Editions du Chêne (Paris)

- Mode du Siècle, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- A Dedicated Follower of Fashion, Phaidon (London)

- Laetitia Casta, Callaway (New York)

- Alaïa, Steidl (Germany)

- Yves Saint Laurent, International Festival of Fashion Photography

1998 - Tati 50 years, Steidl (Germany)

- The Fashion Book, Phaidon (London)

- À Noir, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- L’Uomo Vogue 1968-1998, Condé Nast (Italy)

- Photojeanic, Forum

- Alberta Ferretti, Leonardo Arte (Italy)

1997    - Isabella Rossellini, Schirmer/Mosel (Munich)

- Graphis Photo’97 (New York)

- Moda & Gioielli, Leonardo Arte (Italy)

- Naked, Harper Collins (New York)

- The Man of Fashion, Thames and Hudson (London)

- The photographers Book, Phaidon (London)

- Encyclopédie de la photographie, Camera Obscura (Switzerland)

- Leg, Donna Karen (Los Angeles)

- Galliano, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Yohji Yamamoto, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Visitors, Biennale di Firenze, Skira (Italy)

- L’Art de la Coiffure, Callaway (New York)

- Jean-Paul Gaultier, Editions Assouline (Paris)

- Fashion, Photographs of the Nineties, Scalo (Switzerland)

1995 - Kate, James Danziger Gallery (New York)

1994 - A Positive View, The Saatchi Gallery (London)

1993 - Vanities, National Centre of Photography (Paris)

- Appearances, Martin Harrison (London)

- Idealising Vision, Aperture (New York)

- Pictures of peace, Knopf (New York)

1988 - History of 20th Century Fashion, J. Mulvagh, Viking (London)

 - Beauty Photography in Vogue, Octopus Books (London)

- Fashion & Surrealism, R. Martin, Rizzoli International (New York)

1986 - The Arts of Vogue Covers, V. Lloyd, Octopus Books (London)

1985- Shots of Style, Victoria and Albert  Museum (London)

20 Anni di Vogue, Conde Nast (Milan)

Group (Principals)
Others
Publications